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3By making fashion with data as a material, we believe that we can critically create for everyone; no matter what shape,size or color. Data is the key to personalized fashion as it empowers and enables individuality yet retains the social potential of fashion. Fashion has believed for centuries that clothes used to be personally tailored, we intend to make that true for all.This is an important moment for fashion. Much of the industry is bankrupt,creating opportunities to rebuild with new ideas surrounding technology and sustainability. Data is key to the
digital transformation of fashion,meaning new craftsmanship is also required. Furthermore,the unique qualities of fashion allow for our research to inform technology and data science.
INAUGURELE REDE
We describe here the design and implementation of the Fashion Tech Farm (FTF), which aims to drive sustainable innovation in garments and fashion. We describe our goals, design principles, and the implementation. The design principles are rooted in an understanding of the fashion system, open networks, and entrepreneurial thinking. After four years of work on the FTF, we review three projects to evaluate how far the work has achieved the main goals and how our design principles are developing.
HOOFDSTUK
More and more non-Western brands and designers entering the fashion world introducing new values, narratives and aesthetics into a dominant Western Fashion discourse deeply intertwined with notions of conceptualism, modernism and postmodernism. In a moment of history where we are facing a failing fashion system, these new voices are introducing new values and new imaginations that try to transform the system into a more inclusive, fair and decentred discipline. Also, on an academic level transnational and decolonial theories are proposing new and fresh lenses on how to critically re-think the Eurocentric Fashion system using new terminologies as de-linking, precedence and aesthesis and the pluri-versal. Do these new perspectives give us the tools to redefine and modify the Western definitions of fashion into a more inclusive and alternative system?
HOOFDSTUK
How can we persuade consumers to adopt more sustainable purchasing practices (e.g. buying less, buying sustainable items, or choosing for sustainable brands) when it comes to fashion products? With the support of 2nd year International Business Management students, we collected data from 1008 respondents, mostly from Millennials and Generation Z. Based on the results, we conclude that concern about the environment motivates consumers to consume fashion products more sustainable, in particular when reminded of its positive impact. Consumers who are less concerned about the environment can be persuaded to choose the sustainable option when sustainable choices are widely available, when items are competitively priced, and when second-hand garments look like new. This research gives direction to further identification and exploration of the triggers that can persuade consumers to consume more sustainable.
PREPRINT
De gemeente Almere wil richting een circulaire economie bewegen, waarin zo min mogelijk grondstoffen gebruikt worden en waarin zo min mogelijk afval ontstaat. Een van de reststromen die een grote milieu-impact hebben is textiel. De indruk bestaat dat steeds meer textiel kortstondig gebruikt wordt of van een zodanige kwaliteit is dat het een korte levensduur heeft (zogenaamde fast-fashion). De gemeente Almere wil de trend van fast-fashion bij jongeren doorbreken, maar weet nog niet goed hoe deze doelgroep te bereiken en hoe meer bewustzijn en een gedragsverandering bij deze doelgroep gerealiseerd kan worden. Het huidige onderzoek is verricht om meer inzicht te krijgen in de gedragsfactoren die bij deze verandering in bewustzijn en gedrag een rol kunnen spelen en het type gedrag waarop de verandering zich kan richten.
Voor het het kopen van fast fashion/ niet duurzame kleding bestaan een aantal alternatieven: (1) duurzame merken kopen, (2) tweedehands kleding kopen, (3) kleding ruilen, (4) kleding huren of leasen en tot slot (5) minder kleding kopen. De enquête richt zich vooral op de gedragsfactoren in relatie tot deze vijf gedragsalternatieven. De interviews waren bedoeld om hier verdieping aan te geven. Daarnaast is hierin aandacht besteed aan het type koper (naar de typologie van McNeil en Moore, 2015) en aan de rol van social influencers om meer verdieping te geven aan de gedragsfactor sociale normen. Gezamenlijk wilden wij hiermee de volgende onderzoeksvragen beantwoorden:
1. Hoe kunnen de jongeren in Almere getypeerd worden als het gaat om hun kledingkoopgedrag?
2. Welke gedragsalternatieven zijn jongeren (in Almere) het meest bereid om te kiezen?
3. Welke gedragsfactoren beïnvloeden de bereidheid om voor deze gedragsalternatieven te kiezen?
Aan de hand van 320 enquêtes en 15 interviews is het kledingkoopgedrag van jongeren in Almere (deels gecombineerd met landelijk) onderzocht. Hieruit kan het volgende geconcludeerd worden:
•In Almere koopt men grotendeels kleding bij grote fast fashion ketens. Een groot deel van de Almeerse jeugd is dan ook wel in meer of mindere mate met het fenomeen fast fashion in verband te brengen.
•De bereidheid om voor duurzamere alternatieven te kiezen is onder jongeren in Almere aanwezig, maar niet heel groot. De aanwezige bereidheid geldt voor het kopen van duurzame merken, tweedehands kleding kopen, kleding ruilen en minder kleding kopen. Voor kleding huren of lenen is nauwelijks bereidheid aanwezig.
•Uit de enquête komen drie belangrijke gedragsfactoren naar voren die de bereidheid beïnvloeden: de Attitude (affectief; hoe leuk vs. saai zijn de duurzame alternatieven), Self-Efficacy (hoe makkelijk vs. moeilijk is het kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven) en de Response Efficacy (hoeveel zin heeft het om te kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven). In iets minder mate komt ook Cognitieve Attitude naar voren als gedragsfactor (hoe belangrijk is het milieu bij de aankoop van kleding).
•Uit de interviews komt vooral veel bevestiging voor het effect van Response Efficacy en Self-Efficacy en van de Cognitieve Attitude naar voren. Daarnaast komt Impulsgedrag als nieuwe factor naar voren (welke rol speelt het weerstand kunnen bieden aan het genot/ plezier dat shoppen oplevert?)
•Al met al kan geconcludeerd worden dat de bereidheid om voor duurzame opties te kiezen gemiddeld niet heel hoog is, maar dat de mogelijkheid om deze bereidheid te beïnvloeden wel groot lijkt en er veel verschillende gedragsfactoren zijn waarop aangegrepen kan worden.
Voor deze gedragsfactoren is een overzicht van mogelijke interventies gepresenteerd.
RAPPORT
This article seeks to contribute to the literature on circular business model innovation in fashion retail. Our research question is which ‘model’—or combination of models—would be ideal as a business case crafting multiple value creation in small fashion retail. We focus on a qualitative, single in-depth case study—pop-up store KLEER—that we operated for a duration of three months in the Autumn of 2020. The shop served as a ‘testlab’ for action research to experiment with different business models around buying, swapping, and borrowing second-hand clothing. Adopting the Business Model Template (BMT) as a conceptual lens, we undertook a sensory ethnography which led to disclose three key strategies for circular business model innovation in fashion retail: Fashion-as-a-Service (F-a-a-S) instead of Product-as-a-Service (P-a-a-S) (1), Place-based value proposition (2) and Community as co-creator (3). Drawing on these findings, we reflect on ethnography in the context of a real pop-up store as methodological approach for business model experimentation. As a practical implication, we propose a tailor-made BMT for sustainable SME fashion retailers. Poldner K, Overdiek A, Evangelista A. Fashion-as-a-Service: Circular Business Model Innovation in Retail. Sustainability. 2022; 14(20):13273. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013273
ARTIKEL
Recent developments in digital technology and consumer culture have created new opportunities for retail and brand event concepts which create value by offering more than solely marketing or transactions, but rather a place where passion is shared. This chapter will define the concept of ‘fashion space’ and consumer experience, and delves into strategies for creating experiences that both align with a brand’s ethos and identity and build brand communities. It will provide insight on creating strong shared brand experiences that integrate physical and digital spaces, AR and VR. These insights can be used for consumer spaces but also for media and buyer events, runway shows, test labs and showrooms. Since its launch in 2007, international fashion brand COS has focused on creating fashion spaces that build and reinforce a COS fashion community. COS retail stores with their extraordinary architecture, both traditional and contemporary, contribute stories and facilitate intense brand experiences. Moreover, COS’ dedication to share the artistic inspirations of its people led to collaborating on interactive and multi-sensory installations which allow consumers to affectively connect to the brand’s personality and values. Thus, the brand was able to establish itself firmly in the lifestyle of its customers, facilitating and developing their aesthetics and values. This is an Accepted Manuscript of a book chapter published by Routledge/CRC Press in "Communicating Fashion Brands. Theoretical and Practical Perspectives" on 03-03-2020, available online: https://www.routledge.com/Communicating-Fashion-Brands-Theoretical-and-Practical-Perspectives/Huggard-Cope/p/book/9781138613560. LinkedIn: https://nl.linkedin.com/in/overdiek12345
BOEKDEEL
This paper aims to reconsider our cultural - and industry wide - reliance upon authentic identity in terms of fashion. Clothing has come to signify our personal beliefs and values, allowing for incessant (but acceptable, even honourable) consumption and change. Inadvertently, the shaky foundations of chasing 'authentic' identity have destabilised environmental pursuits in fashion, fostering individualistic ideologies which dissolve existing community relationships. The contemporary fashion system finds itself at a crossroad between sustainable development and continued capitalist growth. Cultural beliefs, particularly in the global north, centred on discovering an essential 'true self' have bled into consumer desires and our cultural relations with clothing. Consequently, expressing identity through personal style is rewarded as an outward display of the authentic self. Yet, the search for and conclusion of our authentic desires is not an uninfluenced journey, especially amidst the post-modern world of advertising. Authentic style and desires may be less personal, and more tied to external sociocultural positioning, than previously thought. Trend cycles accelerate with no pause in sight, spurred on through the instantaneousness of the internet and modern technologies, redirecting the goalpost for authentic fashion at each turn. Nowadays, authenticity can easily be mistaken for performativity, as it is based upon self-idealisation instead of autonomy and pushes one towards commodity consumption.
In this paper we argue that re-assessing our cultural necessity for normative authenticity is vital towards re-directing fashion's development towards a less exploitative and pollutant path. Moreover, by contesting the notion of authenticity in personal style, we can help deconstruct individualistic approaches to fashion identity which only encourage consumptive behaviours and hinder active engagement with sustainable and ethical fashion.
PAPER
An interactive full-length mirror that allows you to browse through an endless collection ofclothing and see immediately whether something fits you, including when you turn around, and which also allows you to send a picture quickly to your family and friends to hear what they think. This mirror is a technological development that is already possible and which is being introduced in fashion stores here and there. But how probable is it that this technological innovation will become a permanent feature of our shopping experience? To answer this question we shall describe the expectations that exist about the developments in shopping over the coming years. We shall then examine to what extent these developments already play a role in shopping now, in 2014. In order to maintain an overview, we shall introduce a typology based on the STOF model. All of the innovations mentioned are ultimately aimed at offering added value for the consumer, but who is that consumer and what does he or she need? An inventory of how the shopping consumer is regarded makes it clear that new perspectives are required in order to do justice to the complexity of the retail behaviour and the retail experience. Finally, we will briefly examine specific cross-media aspects of shopping, such as the multichannel strategy of retail outlets and the role of the physical store in relation to the webshop. We end by offering a research framework for the 'service encounter' in the retail process based on the concept of Servicescapes. This framework allows to chart and answer a number of essential questions surrounding the probability of innovations more systematically.
RAPPORT
The fashion industry is among the most polluting sectors worldwide. Each year, more than 92 million tons of textile waste are generated globally, while the number of wears per garment continues to decline. In the Netherlands, on average a person owns approximately 173 clothing items, purchases about 46 new items annually, and leaves roughly 50 pieces unworn in their closet. Overconsumption not only intensifies environmental pressures, such as excessive water use and rising CO₂ emissions, but also perpetuates social injustices embedded in production chains. In response to these trends, the United Nations, through Sustainable Development Goal #12, calls for cleaner production processes as well as fundamental shifts in consumer behavior. Sustainable fashion has emerged as a key pathway toward change, promoting ethical production and alternative consumption models such as resale, rental, and recycling. Retailers, positioned to shape consumer behavior, play a pivotal role in this transition but continue to struggle against the convenience and low prices of fast fashion. The central research question addressed by this dissertation is: How can sustainable fashion retailers apply insights into socio-psychological predictors of sustainable fashion consumption in their marketing tactics to encourage uptake of sustainable fashion? This dissertation comprises four studies: i) a systematic literature review on socio-psychological predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing; ii) a qualitative study on the perceptions and marketing tactics of sustainable fashion retailers; iii) an analysis of how second-hand fashion retailers cater to Generation Z; and iv) an experimental study on the influence of referral rewards on Generation Z purchase behavior.
PROEFSCHRIFT
