De gemeente Almere wil richting een circulaire economie bewegen, waarin zo min mogelijk grondstoffen gebruikt worden en waarin zo min mogelijk afval ontstaat. Een van de reststromen die een grote milieu-impact hebben is textiel. De indruk bestaat dat steeds meer textiel kortstondig gebruikt wordt of van een zodanige kwaliteit is dat het een korte levensduur heeft (zogenaamde fast-fashion). De gemeente Almere wil de trend van fast-fashion bij jongeren doorbreken, maar weet nog niet goed hoe deze doelgroep te bereiken en hoe meer bewustzijn en een gedragsverandering bij deze doelgroep gerealiseerd kan worden. Het huidige onderzoek is verricht om meer inzicht te krijgen in de gedragsfactoren die bij deze verandering in bewustzijn en gedrag een rol kunnen spelen en het type gedrag waarop de verandering zich kan richten. Voor het het kopen van fast fashion/ niet duurzame kleding bestaan een aantal alternatieven: (1) duurzame merken kopen, (2) tweedehands kleding kopen, (3) kleding ruilen, (4) kleding huren of leasen en tot slot (5) minder kleding kopen. De enquête richt zich vooral op de gedragsfactoren in relatie tot deze vijf gedragsalternatieven. De interviews waren bedoeld om hier verdieping aan te geven. Daarnaast is hierin aandacht besteed aan het type koper (naar de typologie van McNeil en Moore, 2015) en aan de rol van social influencers om meer verdieping te geven aan de gedragsfactor sociale normen. Gezamenlijk wilden wij hiermee de volgende onderzoeksvragen beantwoorden:1. Hoe kunnen de jongeren in Almere getypeerd worden als het gaat om hun kledingkoopgedrag?2. Welke gedragsalternatieven zijn jongeren (in Almere) het meest bereid om te kiezen? 3. Welke gedragsfactoren beïnvloeden de bereidheid om voor deze gedragsalternatieven te kiezen? Aan de hand van 320 enquêtes en 15 interviews is het kledingkoopgedrag van jongeren in Almere (deels gecombineerd met landelijk) onderzocht. Hieruit kan het volgende geconcludeerd worden: •In Almere koopt men grotendeels kleding bij grote fast fashion ketens. Een groot deel van de Almeerse jeugd is dan ook wel in meer of mindere mate met het fenomeen fast fashion in verband te brengen. •De bereidheid om voor duurzamere alternatieven te kiezen is onder jongeren in Almere aanwezig, maar niet heel groot. De aanwezige bereidheid geldt voor het kopen van duurzame merken, tweedehands kleding kopen, kleding ruilen en minder kleding kopen. Voor kleding huren of lenen is nauwelijks bereidheid aanwezig. •Uit de enquête komen drie belangrijke gedragsfactoren naar voren die de bereidheid beïnvloeden: de Attitude (affectief; hoe leuk vs. saai zijn de duurzame alternatieven), Self-Efficacy (hoe makkelijk vs. moeilijk is het kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven) en de Response Efficacy (hoeveel zin heeft het om te kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven). In iets minder mate komt ook Cognitieve Attitude naar voren als gedragsfactor (hoe belangrijk is het milieu bij de aankoop van kleding). •Uit de interviews komt vooral veel bevestiging voor het effect van Response Efficacy en Self-Efficacy en van de Cognitieve Attitude naar voren. Daarnaast komt Impulsgedrag als nieuwe factor naar voren (welke rol speelt het weerstand kunnen bieden aan het genot/ plezier dat shoppen oplevert?) •Al met al kan geconcludeerd worden dat de bereidheid om voor duurzame opties te kiezen gemiddeld niet heel hoog is, maar dat de mogelijkheid om deze bereidheid te beïnvloeden wel groot lijkt en er veel verschillende gedragsfactoren zijn waarop aangegrepen kan worden. Voor deze gedragsfactoren is een overzicht van mogelijke interventies gepresenteerd.
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This paper aims to reconsider our cultural - and industry wide - reliance upon authentic identity in terms of fashion. Clothing has come to signify our personal beliefs and values, allowing for incessant (but acceptable, even honourable) consumption and change. Inadvertently, the shaky foundations of chasing 'authentic' identity have destabilised environmental pursuits in fashion, fostering individualistic ideologies which dissolve existing community relationships. The contemporary fashion system finds itself at a crossroad between sustainable development and continued capitalist growth. Cultural beliefs, particularly in the global north, centred on discovering an essential 'true self' have bled into consumer desires and our cultural relations with clothing. Consequently, expressing identity through personal style is rewarded as an outward display of the authentic self. Yet, the search for and conclusion of our authentic desires is not an uninfluenced journey, especially amidst the post-modern world of advertising. Authentic style and desires may be less personal, and more tied to external sociocultural positioning, than previously thought. Trend cycles accelerate with no pause in sight, spurred on through the instantaneousness of the internet and modern technologies, redirecting the goalpost for authentic fashion at each turn. Nowadays, authenticity can easily be mistaken for performativity, as it is based upon self-idealisation instead of autonomy and pushes one towards commodity consumption.In this paper we argue that re-assessing our cultural necessity for normative authenticity is vital towards re-directing fashion's development towards a less exploitative and pollutant path. Moreover, by contesting the notion of authenticity in personal style, we can help deconstruct individualistic approaches to fashion identity which only encourage consumptive behaviours and hinder active engagement with sustainable and ethical fashion.
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Recent developments in digital technology and consumer culture have created new opportunities for retail and brand event concepts which create value by offering more than solely marketing or transactions, but rather a place where passion is shared. This chapter will define the concept of ‘fashion space’ and consumer experience, and delves into strategies for creating experiences that both align with a brand’s ethos and identity and build brand communities. It will provide insight on creating strong shared brand experiences that integrate physical and digital spaces, AR and VR. These insights can be used for consumer spaces but also for media and buyer events, runway shows, test labs and showrooms. Since its launch in 2007, international fashion brand COS has focused on creating fashion spaces that build and reinforce a COS fashion community. COS retail stores with their extraordinary architecture, both traditional and contemporary, contribute stories and facilitate intense brand experiences. Moreover, COS’ dedication to share the artistic inspirations of its people led to collaborating on interactive and multi-sensory installations which allow consumers to affectively connect to the brand’s personality and values. Thus, the brand was able to establish itself firmly in the lifestyle of its customers, facilitating and developing their aesthetics and values. This is an Accepted Manuscript of a book chapter published by Routledge/CRC Press in "Communicating Fashion Brands. Theoretical and Practical Perspectives" on 03-03-2020, available online: https://www.routledge.com/Communicating-Fashion-Brands-Theoretical-and-Practical-Perspectives/Huggard-Cope/p/book/9781138613560. LinkedIn: https://nl.linkedin.com/in/overdiek12345
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This article seeks to contribute to the literature on circular business model innovation in fashion retail. Our research question is which ‘model’—or combination of models—would be ideal as a business case crafting multiple value creation in small fashion retail. We focus on a qualitative, single in-depth case study—pop-up store KLEER—that we operated for a duration of three months in the Autumn of 2020. The shop served as a ‘testlab’ for action research to experiment with different business models around buying, swapping, and borrowing second-hand clothing. Adopting the Business Model Template (BMT) as a conceptual lens, we undertook a sensory ethnography which led to disclose three key strategies for circular business model innovation in fashion retail: Fashion-as-a-Service (F-a-a-S) instead of Product-as-a-Service (P-a-a-S) (1), Place-based value proposition (2) and Community as co-creator (3). Drawing on these findings, we reflect on ethnography in the context of a real pop-up store as methodological approach for business model experimentation. As a practical implication, we propose a tailor-made BMT for sustainable SME fashion retailers. Poldner K, Overdiek A, Evangelista A. Fashion-as-a-Service: Circular Business Model Innovation in Retail. Sustainability. 2022; 14(20):13273. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013273
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We describe here the design and implementation of the Fashion Tech Farm (FTF), which aims to drive sustainable innovation in garments and fashion. We describe our goals, design principles, and the implementation. The design principles are rooted in an understanding of the fashion system, open networks, and entrepreneurial thinking. After four years of work on the FTF, we review three projects to evaluate how far the work has achieved the main goals and how our design principles are developing.
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An interactive full-length mirror that allows you to browse through an endless collection ofclothing and see immediately whether something fits you, including when you turn around, and which also allows you to send a picture quickly to your family and friends to hear what they think. This mirror is a technological development that is already possible and which is being introduced in fashion stores here and there. But how probable is it that this technological innovation will become a permanent feature of our shopping experience? To answer this question we shall describe the expectations that exist about the developments in shopping over the coming years. We shall then examine to what extent these developments already play a role in shopping now, in 2014. In order to maintain an overview, we shall introduce a typology based on the STOF model. All of the innovations mentioned are ultimately aimed at offering added value for the consumer, but who is that consumer and what does he or she need? An inventory of how the shopping consumer is regarded makes it clear that new perspectives are required in order to do justice to the complexity of the retail behaviour and the retail experience. Finally, we will briefly examine specific cross-media aspects of shopping, such as the multichannel strategy of retail outlets and the role of the physical store in relation to the webshop. We end by offering a research framework for the 'service encounter' in the retail process based on the concept of Servicescapes. This framework allows to chart and answer a number of essential questions surrounding the probability of innovations more systematically.
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While consumers have become increasingly aware of the need for sustainability in fashion, many do not translate their intention to purchase sustainable fashion into actual behavior. Insights can be gained from those who have successfully transitioned from intention to behavior (i.e., experienced sustainable fashion consumers). Despite a substantial body of literature exploring predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing, a comprehensive view on how predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing vary between consumers with and without sustainable fashion experience is lacking. This paper reports a systematic literature review, analyzing 100 empirical articles on predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing among consumer samples with and without purchasing experience, identified from the Web of Science and Scopus databases.
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The fashion industry, in particular fast fashion, is one of the largest contributors to climate degradation (Boström & Micheletti, 2016). Immersive technologies such as Extended Reality (XR), including Virtual Reality (VR) and Augmented Reality (AR) are suggested as solutions (Zhou et al., 2022) to among others promote sustainability awareness of fashion consumers (Spadoni et al., 2024; Won et al., 2024). While there is a plethora of studies researching virtual worlds and VR in online shopping (Xi & Hamari, 2021), there is a scarcity of studies looking specifically at VR fashion. This research sub-stream mostly studied the VR environment and interaction devices [e.g., freehand gestures (Wu et al., 2019)] and compared different degrees of the perceived reality such as physical spaces, digital photos, 360 degrees, and 3D. Overall, studies found that products in VR increased purchase intention (Moes & Van Vliet, 2017) and realism, interactivity, and choice to be important determinants (Donatiello et al., 2018). Also, experiential benefits (Kapusy & Logo, 2017) such as enjoyment (Moes & Van Vliet, 2017) are important mediators.However, there is a paucity of research that studies interactivity with fashion products in XR and VR. There is consumer reluctance to engage in VR (Mesjar et al., 2023) and a lack of understanding of consumer ownership in this unique environment that is characterised by non-consequential, disentangled, and polyidentity user experiences (Xi & Hamari, 2021). Therefore, Xi and Hamari (2021) call for more research studying this interactivity.We suggest studying the consumer engagement with XR fashion through psychological ownership theory (Pierce et al., 2003, 2004). Studies have shown that being able to have control over an object’s use induced feelings of psychological ownership (Morewedge, 2021). It relates to being able to customize the object. For example, Watkins and Molesworth (2012) found that gamers created feelings of possession as they customized virtual goods. Therefore, the research question we study in this project is: ‘how does customization influence consumers’ psychological ownership in VR fashion?’ We conducted two studies. In study 1, we surveyed 94 respondents. Study 2 randomized controlled trial
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Small medium enterprises represent the largest share of revenues in the apparel and fashion business, compared to larger integrated companies. Small companies however often have to rely on larger suppliers in order to efficiently produce their products. These larger suppliers however will often prioritize companies that place larger orders. In the impossibility to deliver larger orders, how can these buyers make sure that a producer complies with their requests? In this paper we try to answer this question by applying concepts from the marketing channels literature to the specific context of fashion buying. We conclude that despite that the peculiarities of the fashion business do not foster the formation of long-term commitment, dependent companies can develop sources of power based on knowledge and reputation, but also based on applying non-mediated ways to manage the buyer-seller relationship. Examples of possible power sources for a buyer are: establishing a strong brand that a business partner will use in promoting its proposition, forcing suppliers to make transaction specific investments (which are not redeploy able), specializing in new products and technologies that a supplier will want to understand and use, developing knowledge that can be exchanged in the form of specialized personnel, investing in standardization of communication before the relationship starts in order to reduce administrative costs for both parties. Power sources are most effective when non-mediated, i.e. informal and based on reciprocity; ‘hard’ contracts with punishments (coercive power sources) in case of non-compliance will diminish the willingness to collaborate.
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Although it appears increasingly important yet potentially challenging to attract customers to physical stores, location-based messaging, i.e., delivering mobile phone messages using data about the recipient's location when that recipient is near the sender, has been said to enable such attraction. Still, existing studies offer very limited insight into which particular location-based persuasion approach retailers should use. Drawing on persuasion theory, this exploratory study aims to investigate and compare the potential of two discrepant persuasion techniques (scarcity and social proof) to influence customers' experiences and thereby stimulate them to visit the retailer's physical store. A factorial survey design was applied to test the research model. Data were collected from a sample of actual customers of a Dutch fashion retailer (n = 579). The results suggest that scarcity is a more effective persuasion technique in the studied context than social proof; scarcity-focused messages appear to be experienced as more informative, more entertaining and less irritating, seem to be valued more because of this, and are thus more likely to incline customers to visit the store. We discuss these findings and their implications for theory as well as for practice.
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