Fashion and textile practice transitioned over the past decade from a physically engaged design practice into a screen-based design practice with textiles simulated on digital bodies. Digital designers use tangible interaction with textiles for post-phenomenological design considerations. Our research indicates a complementary relationship between tangible interaction and drape observation, which allows for new approaches when considering textile materials. The drape observation based on drape measurement methods developed in textile science equips designers with a deeper material understanding. As the flat textile is placed in the scientific setup, the deformation and the designer's experience co-shape design considerations. The physical-to-digital paradigm shift disconnects designers from the tangible interaction with the textile. Fashion designers' approach contrasts with textile science methods to measure textile properties (needed to simulate textiles) and drape. Equipping designers with this understanding of textile technology requires interdisciplinary developments to make combined tangible drape tools accessible in physical and digital design spaces. Understanding design considerations in physical-digital practices and material drape, utilizing simulated textile properties, is essential for this endeavor. Cross-disciplinary understanding of textiles and similar soft materials between fashion designers, design researchers, textile and computer researchers, and cultural heritage researchers seems valuable in reducing measurement hurdles and creating tools to increase relationships between the physical and digital textiles and improving visual analyses and assessment of textiles. Our reflection to sharpen the post-phenomenological lens and cross-disciplinary collaborations of our past and future research contributes to understanding physical-digital textile design considerations and required cross-disciplinary interaction.
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The New Aesthetic and Art: Constellations of the Postdigital is an interdisciplinary analysis focusing on new digital phenomena at the intersections of theory and contemporary art. Asserting the unique character of New Aesthetic objects, Contreras-Koterbay and Mirocha trace the origins of the New Aesthetic in visual arts, design, and software, find its presence resonating in various kinds of digital imagery, and track its agency in everyday effects of the intertwined physical world and the digital realm. Contreras-Koterbay and Mirocha bring to light an original perspective that identifies an autonomous quality in common digital objects and examples of art that are increasingly an important influence for today’s culture and society.Influenced by a diverse range of figures, ranging from Vilém Flusser, Arthur Schopenhauer, Immanuel Kant, David Berry, Lev Manovich, Olga Goriunova, Ernst Mayr, Bruce Sterling and, of course, James Bridle, The New Aesthetic and Art: Constellations of the Postdigital doesn’t just propose a description of a new set of objects but radically asserts that New Aesthetic objects analogously function as organisms within a broader digital-physical ecosystems of things and agents.
EU president Ursula von der Leyen wants Europe to tap into its inner avant-garde. In her inaugural State of the Union speech from September 16, 2020, she pledged to revive the historical Bauhaus - the experimental art school that married artistic form with functional design, founded a century ago in Weimar, Germany. Their objective was to democratize the experience of aesthetics and design through affordable commodity objects for the masses. Today, the European Union sees a chance to create a new common aesthetic born out of a need to renovate and construct more energy-efficient buildings. “I want NextGenerationEU to kickstart a European renovation wave and make our Union a leader in the circular economy,” von der Leyen said. The new Bauhaus is not just an environmental or economic project, “it needs to be a new cultural project for Europe. Every movement has its own look and feel. And we need to give our systemic change its own distinct aesthetic—to match style with sustainability. This is why we will set up a New European Bauhaus—a co-creation space where architects, artists, students, engineers, designers work together to make that happen. This is shaping the world we want to live in. A world served by an economy that cuts emissions, boosts competitiveness, reduces energy poverty, creates rewarding jobs and improves quality of life. A world where we use digital technologies to build a healthier, greener society.”
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To decrease the environmental impact caused by the construction sector, biobased materials need to be further developed to allow better integration and acceptance in the market. Mycelium composites are innovative products, with intrinsic properties which rise the attention of architects, designers and industrial companies. Until now, research has focused on the mechanical properties of mycelium products. The aim has been improving their mechanical strength, to achieve wider application in the construction sector. Alongside this, to introduce mycelium composites to a wider market, the aesthetic experience of the public also needs to be considered. In the context of this proposal, it is argued that users of biobased products can shift their attitudes towards their surroundings by adjusting to the visual aesthetics within their environment or products they surround themselves with (Hekkert, 1997). This can be further attributed to colours which can be experienced as warm or cold, aggressive or inviting, leading to experiences that may include pleasure or displeasure indicating the future success of the bio based product. Mycelium composites can be used as building materials, but also as interior design materials, therefore visible to its user. It is to determine the appropriate methodologies to confer colour to mycelium composites that the companies Impershield and Dorable came together to form the consortium for the present project. The investigated ways are: 1. Through the preliminary colouring of fibres and their use as substrate for mycelium growth 2. The surface treatment of the final product. The Centre of Expertise BioBased Economy (CoEBBE) and the Centre of Applied Research for Art and Design (CARADT) will be guiding the research through their experience with mycelium composites. This project will lay the basis to enhance visual appearance of mycelium composites, with the utilization of natural pigments, natural paints and coatings.
Kunstenaar en HKU-docent Marloeke van der Vlugt onderzoekt het belang van de tastzin. Haar promotieonderzoek naar tactiliteit in en door kunst is onderdeel van een pilot van de HKU met de Universiteit van Humanistiek. In een tijd waarin aanraken wordt geassocieerd met risico en taboe, zoekt zij juist naar manieren om tactiele sensaties te activeren. De tastzin is een van de belangrijkste zintuigen waarmee we geboren worden. Maar terwijl we als baby nog alles vastpakken en in ons mond steken, wordt ons dat razendsnel afgeleerd. ‘Niet aankomen’ is een veel gehoord zinnetje uit onze jongste jaren. In de kunst is dat tot in het uiterste doorgevoerd. Daarin wordt de esthetische afstand gepromoot, en hebben kijken en luisteren een veel prominentere rol gekregen. In musea ligt alles keurig in een glazen kastje en bij voorstellingen zit het publiek op gepaste afstand van de performers. En dat terwijl er bijna geen directere ervaring met zoveel impact is als aanraking. Van der Vlugt is uit op resensibilisatie, niet alleen voor haar publiek, maar ook voor zichzelf als maker: “Hoe raak ik deze wereld aan en hoe raakt de wereld mij aan?” The Aesthetics of Touch is een ‘artistic research PhD’: een pilot waarin HKU met de Universiteit van Humanistiek samenwerkt om promotieonderzoeken mogelijk te maken. Voor dit onderzoek naar tactiliteit in en door kunst ontvangt Van der Vlugt een NWO Promotiebeurs voor Leraren, die haar gedeeltelijk vrijwaart van haar vaste onderwijstaken. “Het vernieuwende aan artistiek onderzoek is dat je onderzoekt door dingen te maken en te delen,” zegt Van der Vlugt. Dat begint bij haar eigen kunstenaarspraktijk, waarin ze op zoek gaat naar een tactiel creatieproces met sculpturale, onvoorspelbare materialen en technieken. De artefacten die daaruit komen, zoals de polyurethaan bolletjes met hun mysterieuze inhoud van natuurlijk gekleurd gips, deelt zij vervolgens met het publiek in interactieve performances. Wil je meer weten over The Aesthetics of Touch? Neem dan contact op met Marloeke van der Vlugt via marloeke.vandervlugt@hku.nl
