Op 27 januari 2006 is dr. Michiel Scheffer geïnstalleerd als lector Fashion Materials Design bij Saxion in Enschede. Het lectoraat en de bijbehorende kenniskring is gericht op het versterken van de wisselwerking tussen creativiteit, technologie en economie op het gebied van mode en textiel. Deze wisselwerking moet sterker tot uiting komen in het onderwijs en dient ook in samenwerking met het bedrijfsleven tot uiting te komen in een onderzoeksprogramma. Het lectoraat is ondergebracht bij de opleiding Fashion en Textiel Management binnen de Academie voor Kunst en Toegepaste Techniek in Enschede. Dr. Michiel Scheffer is economisch geograaf en is al vijftien jaar actief in de Europese kleding en textielbranche als onderzoeker, consultant en branchemanager. Dit boek bevat de tekst van de lectorale rede van Michiel Scheffer.
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Small medium enterprises represent the largest share of revenues in the apparel and fashion business, compared to larger integrated companies. Small companies however often have to rely on larger suppliers in order to efficiently produce their products. These larger suppliers however will often prioritize companies that place larger orders. In the impossibility to deliver larger orders, how can these buyers make sure that a producer complies with their requests? In this paper we try to answer this question by applying concepts from the marketing channels literature to the specific context of fashion buying. We conclude that despite that the peculiarities of the fashion business do not foster the formation of long-term commitment, dependent companies can develop sources of power based on knowledge and reputation, but also based on applying non-mediated ways to manage the buyer-seller relationship. Examples of possible power sources for a buyer are: establishing a strong brand that a business partner will use in promoting its proposition, forcing suppliers to make transaction specific investments (which are not redeploy able), specializing in new products and technologies that a supplier will want to understand and use, developing knowledge that can be exchanged in the form of specialized personnel, investing in standardization of communication before the relationship starts in order to reduce administrative costs for both parties. Power sources are most effective when non-mediated, i.e. informal and based on reciprocity; ‘hard’ contracts with punishments (coercive power sources) in case of non-compliance will diminish the willingness to collaborate.
