While consumers have become increasingly aware of the need for sustainability in fashion, many do not translate their intention to purchase sustainable fashion into actual behavior. Insights can be gained from those who have successfully transitioned from intention to behavior (i.e., experienced sustainable fashion consumers). Despite a substantial body of literature exploring predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing, a comprehensive view on how predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing vary between consumers with and without sustainable fashion experience is lacking. This paper reports a systematic literature review, analyzing 100 empirical articles on predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing among consumer samples with and without purchasing experience, identified from the Web of Science and Scopus databases.
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Despite the importance of sustainable fashion consumption, sustainable fashion retailers capture only a small segment of the overall fashion market. While existing research has thoroughly examined consumer drivers of purchasing sustainable fashion, little is known about how retailers perceive these drivers and whether their marketing tactics reflect these perceptions. This study investigates the alignment between retailers’ presumed drivers of sustainable fashion purchases and the marketing tactics they deploy. Based on interviews with 25 sustainable fashion retailers, analyzed through deductive thematic analysis, the results reveal a disconnect: while retailers identify personal benefits such as style and price as key drivers, their marketing tactics predominantly emphasize relaying generic information about sustainable fashion. Furthermore, the analysis reveals a persistent theoretical misalignment between presumed drivers and the tactics deployed, alongside narrow use of available marketing tactics. These findings have important theoretical and practical implications, highlighting the need for stronger collaboration between academia and practice to test and implement consumer-informed marketing tactics. Such alignment may help expand the reach of sustainable fashion within the broader fashion market.
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This article seeks to contribute to the literature on circular business model innovation in fashion retail. Our research question is which ‘model’—or combination of models—would be ideal as a business case crafting multiple value creation in small fashion retail. We focus on a qualitative, single in-depth case study—pop-up store KLEER—that we operated for a duration of three months in the Autumn of 2020. The shop served as a ‘testlab’ for action research to experiment with different business models around buying, swapping, and borrowing second-hand clothing. Adopting the Business Model Template (BMT) as a conceptual lens, we undertook a sensory ethnography which led to disclose three key strategies for circular business model innovation in fashion retail: Fashion-as-a-Service (F-a-a-S) instead of Product-as-a-Service (P-a-a-S) (1), Place-based value proposition (2) and Community as co-creator (3). Drawing on these findings, we reflect on ethnography in the context of a real pop-up store as methodological approach for business model experimentation. As a practical implication, we propose a tailor-made BMT for sustainable SME fashion retailers. Poldner K, Overdiek A, Evangelista A. Fashion-as-a-Service: Circular Business Model Innovation in Retail. Sustainability. 2022; 14(20):13273. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013273
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Recent developments in digital technology and consumer culture have created new opportunities for retail and brand event concepts which create value by offering more than solely marketing or transactions, but rather a place where passion is shared. This chapter will define the concept of ‘fashion space’ and consumer experience, and delves into strategies for creating experiences that both align with a brand’s ethos and identity and build brand communities. It will provide insight on creating strong shared brand experiences that integrate physical and digital spaces, AR and VR. These insights can be used for consumer spaces but also for media and buyer events, runway shows, test labs and showrooms. Since its launch in 2007, international fashion brand COS has focused on creating fashion spaces that build and reinforce a COS fashion community. COS retail stores with their extraordinary architecture, both traditional and contemporary, contribute stories and facilitate intense brand experiences. Moreover, COS’ dedication to share the artistic inspirations of its people led to collaborating on interactive and multi-sensory installations which allow consumers to affectively connect to the brand’s personality and values. Thus, the brand was able to establish itself firmly in the lifestyle of its customers, facilitating and developing their aesthetics and values. This is an Accepted Manuscript of a book chapter published by Routledge/CRC Press in "Communicating Fashion Brands. Theoretical and Practical Perspectives" on 03-03-2020, available online: https://www.routledge.com/Communicating-Fashion-Brands-Theoretical-and-Practical-Perspectives/Huggard-Cope/p/book/9781138613560. LinkedIn: https://nl.linkedin.com/in/overdiek12345
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Hoewel consumenten aangeven duurzame aspecten van kleding belangrijk te vinden, vertaalt dit zich niet direct in de aankoop van meer duurzame kleding. Uit een enquête van TMO Fashion Business School onder de klanten van mkb multi-brand fashionretailers (steekproefgrootte= 363) blijkt dat 61% van de ondervraagden niet weet welke merken duurzaam zijn en behoefte hebben aan transparantie hierover. Daarnaast vindt 71% de communicatie van verkoopmedewerkers over duurzaamheid slecht (Van der Laan, 2022). Wat kunnen mkb multi-brand fashionretailers doen om hun assortiment duurzame kleding beter te verkopen? Om antwoord te geven op bovenstaande vraag is Next Fashion Retail (NFR) opgericht; een SIA onderzoeksproject van De Haagse Hogeschool, TMO Development Center, Cube Retail en branchepartners Modint, Inretail en Euretco. Next Fashion Retail onderzoekt hoe moderetailers de online en offline retailomgeving kunnen inzetten om de verkoop van duurzame kleding te stimuleren (Van der Laan, 2022). Het onderzoeksproject van NFR is gestart met de onderzoeksvraag: Hoe kunnen mkb multi-brand fashion retailers hun customer journey inrichten om de verkoop van duurzam(er)e kleding te vergroten? In het voorjaar van 2022 zijn op basis van deze eerste onderzoeksresultaten innovaties ontwikkeld door designstudenten, die retailers helpen hun duurzame mode-aanbod beter te verkopen (Van der Laan, 2022). Het winnende design idee van het NFR onderzoek zijn de informatieve hangers van Maaike Roos: Deze zogenaamde ‘conversation pieces’ stimuleren de dialoog tussen medewerkers en klanten over duurzaamheid en zorgen ervoor dat zowel medewerkers als klanten meer informatie over duurzamere keuzes krijgen. Er zijn 3 categorieën geformuleerd met 6 vragen, vijf op de hangers en éen op de ‘give away’ bij de kassa. De drie categorieën zijn: materialen, makers en care. De categorie materialen bestaat uit de materialen: katoen, polyester, viscose en wol. De categorie ‘ makers’ bestaat uit een shelftalker en een hanger eveneens de categorie ‘care’. Het onderzoek is zowel on- als offline: het offline gedeelte wordt uitgevoerd door studenten van TMO Fashion Business School en zal worden uitgevoerd bij negen retailers in de periode van 14 oktober tot 9 december 2022 (zie tabel 1.0). Het online gedeelte wordt uitgevoerd door studenten van de opleiding Ondernemerschap en Retailmanagement van de Haagse Hogeschool.
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This study offers a new perspective on clothing consumption by uncovering the systemic nature of the wardrobe. The research builds on systems theory and aims at drawing a map of the wardrobe as a system with particular structure and behaviour. By co-designing fictional 'smart wardrobe' services with experts and discussing these services with wardrobe users, we identify characteristics of wardrobe structure and behaviour that give input for a preliminary wardrobe map. Lastly, the wardrobe map provides a basis for discussing sustainable design approaches aimed at reducing clothing demand, in the context of growing clothing production volume and its associated environmental impacts.
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Retailers play an important role in persuading consumers to purchase sustainable fashion (SF), but little is known about how, and why, SF retailers persuade consumers. This research aims to understand their choices for marketing and communication tactics. We interviewed 25 SF retailers about the drivers that they presume motivate consumers’ purchases, and about the drivers they actually target in their marketing practices. Our findings show that retailers do not base their marketing tactics on what they presume drives SF purchases: most retailers presumed that personal benefits and advantages motivate SF purchases, however, they targeted cognition-related drivers in marketing communications. Retailers’ current marketing communication endeavors show a disproportionate focus on persuading consumers to choose SF as a category, instead of persuading consumers to purchase their specific products. Based on this study, we recommend researchers and marketeers to support SF retailers with knowledge of effective marketing and communication tactics to address SF purchase behavior change, and the industry and public authorities to provide an effective SF information campaign for consumers.
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In reflecting on Dutch Christmas shoppers, this article will discuss environmental Kuznets curve (EKC), postmaterialist values hypothesis, and ecological modernization theory. According to the EKC hypothesis, while at the initial stages of industrialization material resources are often used unsustainably, continuing industrialization leads to a threshold after which lead to progressively more sustainable technologies. According to the postmaterialist values hypothesis, only wealthier societies can ‘afford’ to care about the environment, assuming that wealth will lead to development of greater concern about and valuation of environment. Finally, ecological modernization theory postulates that environmental conditions improve with advanced technological development and suggests that enlightened self-interest, economy and ecology can be favourably combined and that productive use of natural resources can be a source of future growth. In generalizing economic, political and social trends in relation to consumption in The Netherlands, the aim of this article is to consider the consequences of Western-style consumption for the enterprise of global development. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scs.2013.05.004 https://www.linkedin.com/in/helenkopnina/
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This study proposes a framework to measure touristification of consumption spaces, consisting of concentration of retail capital, business displacement and standardization of the consumption landscape. This framework is tested using business registration data and rent price estimates for consumption spaces in Amsterdam between 2005 and 2020. Touristification emerges from concentrations of retail capital and standardization, but occurs without causing significant business displacement. A cluster analysis identifies different variations of touristification. Besides the more typical cases these include nightlife areas, gentrifying consumption spaces and specialized retail areas. This suggests that local contingencies cause consumption spaces to respond differently to increasing tourism.
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Sustainability and economic growth—the integration and balance of social, environmental, and economic needs—is a salient concern for sustainable development and social well-being. By focusing on a sustainable innovation project, we explore how entrepreneurial ecosystems become sustainable entrepreneurial ecosystems and investigate the interactions of entrepreneurial actors. We conducted an inductive, single-case study of a specific collaborative innovation project in the denim industry specialized in a specific geographic location. From our data, we show that the presence of four conditional aspects foster sustainable entrepreneurial ecosystems. These include sustainability orientation of actors, recognition of sustainable opportunities and resource mobilization, collaborative innovation of sustainability opportunities, and markets for sustainable products. We make two observations that contribute to the literature. First, we see that in a sustainable entrepreneurial ecosystem, entrepreneurial experimentation is a highly interdependent and interactive process. Second, we see that recognition of sustainable opportunities is distributed among different actors in the ecosystem. Our findings also have implications for practitioners and policy-makers.
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