To enable circularity new tools are needed. Regulatory compliance with the European Commission has introduced the Digital Product Passport (DPP) as part of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). This framework requires traceability across all production tiers, including Tier 4, which covers raw material origins. The textile clothing leather and footwear (TCLF) sector has been identified as priority categories for DPP adoption, with mandatory compliance set between 2027 and 2030. DPP system standardizes lifecycle value chain data and includes information on material origin, manufacturing, assembly, and end-of-life handling.
For the Dutch textile sector, comprising of almost 11,000 companies, DPP implementation presents significant challenges due to fragmented data infrastructure and long product lifecycles. Traditional identifiers (e.g., QR-codes, RFID) are often damaged or removed, limiting their effectiveness. Molecular characterization—using established techniques like spectral and chemical analysis—is emerging as the only reliable long-term solution for persistent, product-embedded identification. These molecular methods allow precise validation of fiber content, wear analysis, and recyclability, addressing compliance and end-of-life traceability issues.
The Molecular Digital Physical Digital Product Passport (M-DPP) initiative demonstrates a practical application of these techniques for wool and cotton. It employs co-design to ensure regulatory alignment and develops an open-source API to support automated validation, extended producer responsibility (EPR), return and reuse (RE), textile lifecycle recovery (TLR), and material sorting and recycling (MSR). Smart contract functionality enables automated execution within deposit-refund systems, improving traceability and circularity.
An iterative, design-thinking methodology underpins system development, ensuring adaptability to evolving standards. Pilot testing in collaboration with fashion and interior partners will validate the molecular sensing and data integration approach. Dissemination and scaling will occur through partnerships with NewTexEco, Circolab, DCTV, and TNO’s Center of Excellence for DPPs, aligning with European standardization efforts and enabling sector-wide adoption.
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DPP.DPP.01.009