Facilitate multidisciplinary e-textile development by enhancing collaboration and knowledge transfer across disciplines, ultimately leading to comprehensive requirements while keeping the user interaction in mind. presentation during E-textiles 2023
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The main challenge for the Dutch and European textile and clothing sector is to make a paradigm shift from labour intensive industry to knowledge based industry. This shift is essential for gaining a competitive edge and to develop innovative products and eco-friendly processes. A promising technology to achieve this is digital printing. This future oriented process is aimed to achieve high energy, water, and chemical savings and therefore a drastic reduction of waste. The technology breakthrough is based on a novel Eco-friendly flexible digital process. The basic components of Inkjet printers are hardware, software, inks and the substrate, which in this case is a textile.Inkjet processes can be divided in two main categories, image printing and functional printing. Image printing is already a mature technology and commercially available. The biggest advantages of inkjet printing over screen printing techniques is ease of operation, cost savings and most importantly ability to handle smaller volume (mass customisation). The functional printing is still in the research and development stage. It offers immense possibilities to bring various functional and nano-materials on textile surface on demand in a continuous process at atmospheric conditions and room temperature. Additionally functionality can be delivered at specific location on the textile with a possibility to apply more than one functionality either side by side or layer by layer. Inkjet processes could replace conventional high temperature and wet textile processes. Digital micro-disposal of fluids is expected to alter textile economics in terms of production speeds and on demand production.Nevertheless inkjet printing/finishing on textiles surfaces with different functional formulations is a major challenge. This is because of the close interaction between ink properties and chemistry, the piezo inkjets and the textile substrate. A typical process involves the development of stable jettable colloidal functional inks that will be delivered on well prepared textile substrate, followed by proper curing/fixation.The case we discuss in the manuscript is the development of a smart textile based heatable pair of trousers especially designed for people with disabilities. The inkjet printed textile samples were prepared and compared with conductive samples produced with well-established techniques such as weaving, knitting, nonwoven techniques and embroidering.
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European clothing consumption has increased dramatically in recent decades, leading to a current average of 26 kg of textiles annually purchased per capita (EEA, 2019). While garments (and most of clothing’s environmental impacts) are produced in other parts of the world, European municipalities face a problem of increasing volumes of textile waste. Moreover, the revised waste directive of 2018 specifies that European Union countries will be obliged to collect textiles separately by 2025. This study investigates how these phenomena are affecting city-level policy and strategy, including but not limited to textile waste management. It builds on a comparative analysis of official documents informed by interviews with policy makers and waste management authorities in five European cities. The research points out that, in these cities, clothing environmental policy and other public initiatives are at varied levels of development. The paper identifies three kinds of measures, namely (a) improving separate collection, (b) waste prevention, and (c) consumption reduction. Reducing the share of textiles disposed of in general household waste (and therefore increasing separate collection) has been a central aim in cities where textiles fall under local waste regulation. The waste directive mentioned above makes separate collection of all textiles compulsory for EU members, leading to revisions in some cities’ collection systems. Some municipalities have gone one step further in preventing these textiles from reaching waste streams by supporting local initiatives for repair and reuse. The most advanced and recent approach is aiming at reductions in new clothing demand through citizen campaigns and monitoring the effect of repair and reuse actions in consumption levels. The comparative analysis leads to recommendations for future policy and strategy including developing the three approaches mentioned above simultaneously, further exploring measures for consumption reduction, and the integration of more concrete targets and monitoring plans, so that the most effective paths in social and environmental terms can be identified.
Het doel van dit interdisciplinaire SIA KIEM project Fluïde Eigenschap in de Creatieve Industrie is te onderzoeken of en hoe gedeelde vormen van eigenaarschap in de creatieve industrie kunnen bijdragen aan het creëren van een democratischer en duurzamer economie, waarin ook het MKB kan participeren in digitale innovatie. Het project geeft een overzicht van beschikbare vormen van (gedeeld) eigenaarschap, hun werking en hoe deze creatieve professionals kunnen ondersteunen bij de transitie naar de platformeconomie. Dit wordt toegepast op een concrete case, dat van een digitale breimachine. Naast het leveren van een goede praktijk, moet het project leiden tot een groter internationaal onderzoeksvoorstel over Fluid Ownership in the Creative Industry, dat dieper ingaat op de beschikbare eigendomsoplossingen en hoe deze waarde zullen creëren voor de creatieve professional.
De textiel afvalberg groeit gestaag; aan de ene kant wordt er meer geproduceerd, geconsumeerd en afgedankt; aan de andere kant wordt er niet genoeg hergebruikt. Dit vraagt om oplossingen op meerdere niveaus, zowel technische oplossingen als bewustzijns- en gedragsveranderingen. De kleding- en textielsector, een van de meest vervuilende industrieën , werkt hard aan verduurzaming. In het Beleidsprogramma Circulair Textiel 2020-2025, waarmee de Rijksoverheid beoogt voor 2035 de ecologische voetafdruk van de textielsector te halveren, is een grote rol weggelegd voor de thema’s textielrecycling en consumentenbewustwording. Hoewel de toevoer van textielafval groeit, blijven gezonde verdienmodellen voor de verwerking van textielafval achter. De vraag naar gerecycled textiel is gering. In Trashure doet de Haagse Hogeschool in samenwerking met twee mkb-bedrijven onderzoek naar innovatieve en financieel gezonde businessmodellen voor het bereiken van ‘mainstream’ doelgroepen met producten van textielafval. Consortiumpartner i-did is een sociale onderneming die van gerecycled textiel producten maakt met als doel een zo groot mogelijk maatschappelijk bewustzijn creëren aangaande textielconsumptie. De particuliere afzetmarkt voor de producten is klein, omdat ze geen aansluiting vinden bij een groot publiek. In Trashure wordt verkend hoe een groot ‘mainstream’ publiek bereikt kan worden met producten van textielafval en welke rol design hierin kan spelen. Om deze reden wordt een samenwerking opgezet met duurzame couture ontwerper Ronald van der Kemp (RVDK). Trashure heeft een tweeledig doel: het vergroten van bewustzijn aangaande textielconsumptie en het herwaarderen van textielafval, en het vercommercialiseren van een toegankelijke productlijn met als primaire grondstof textielafval. Het beoogde resultaat is een sustainable business case voor Trashure en een generiek businessmodel waarin de rol van design voor de vercommercialisering en brede acceptatie van circulair textiel centraal staat. De intentie achter de samenwerking is om als voorbeeld functie te fungeren van hoe circulair textiel vermarkt en vercommercialiseerd kan worden.
The textiles and apparel industry faces increasing regulatory pressure to reduce its negative environmental and social impact. A widely discussed strategy is to extend the active lifecycle of garments through durable, better quality clothing. Durability, however, is an ambiguous concept and a more complex understanding of durability is emerging that goes beyond material strength to notions of emotional, social and functional durability that live in consumers’ mindsets. Our understanding of durability and how it impacts product design, reuse, repair and recycling is limited and businesses find it difficult to incorporate durability into more sustainable and circular business models, particularly where there is also an element of degrowth or slow growth. Additionally, digital technologies, particularly for traceability and product information, are needed and require new organizational capabilities and change. Our project proposes to explore the concept of durability in the apparel and textiles industry, focusing on how various industry actors (e.g. fashion brands, designers, suppliers, consumers) define durability and how they incorporate it into commercially viable circular business models. Our proposal is timely in that local, national and EU research agendas are stimulating sustainable and circular transformation. Nationally, we address questions in the Nationale Wetenschaps Agenda (NWA-ORC), e.g. the call on the theme Ab-initio circular materials design that emphasizes an interdisciplinarity approach for circular redesign and includes aspects of socio-economic relevance, raw material innovations and digital tooling. On the EU level, policies, directives and regulations, so called New Industrial Strategies, are aimed at helping industry towards green and digital transformation. Our proposal is pertinent to the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles and the Transition Pathway for the Textiles Ecosystem. Calls in the near future offer opportunities for the consortium to access funding for continued research and industry collaboration.
