Recent developments in digital technology and consumer culture have created new opportunities for retail and brand event concepts which create value by offering more than solely marketing or transactions, but rather a place where passion is shared. This chapter will define the concept of ‘fashion space’ and consumer experience, and delves into strategies for creating experiences that both align with a brand’s ethos and identity and build brand communities. It will provide insight on creating strong shared brand experiences that integrate physical and digital spaces, AR and VR. These insights can be used for consumer spaces but also for media and buyer events, runway shows, test labs and showrooms. Since its launch in 2007, international fashion brand COS has focused on creating fashion spaces that build and reinforce a COS fashion community. COS retail stores with their extraordinary architecture, both traditional and contemporary, contribute stories and facilitate intense brand experiences. Moreover, COS’ dedication to share the artistic inspirations of its people led to collaborating on interactive and multi-sensory installations which allow consumers to affectively connect to the brand’s personality and values. Thus, the brand was able to establish itself firmly in the lifestyle of its customers, facilitating and developing their aesthetics and values. This is an Accepted Manuscript of a book chapter published by Routledge/CRC Press in "Communicating Fashion Brands. Theoretical and Practical Perspectives" on 03-03-2020, available online: https://www.routledge.com/Communicating-Fashion-Brands-Theoretical-and-Practical-Perspectives/Huggard-Cope/p/book/9781138613560. LinkedIn: https://nl.linkedin.com/in/overdiek12345
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While consumers have become increasingly aware of the need for sustainability in fashion, many do not translate their intention to purchase sustainable fashion into actual behavior. Insights can be gained from those who have successfully transitioned from intention to behavior (i.e., experienced sustainable fashion consumers). Despite a substantial body of literature exploring predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing, a comprehensive view on how predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing vary between consumers with and without sustainable fashion experience is lacking. This paper reports a systematic literature review, analyzing 100 empirical articles on predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing among consumer samples with and without purchasing experience, identified from the Web of Science and Scopus databases.
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This article seeks to contribute to the literature on circular business model innovation in fashion retail. Our research question is which ‘model’—or combination of models—would be ideal as a business case crafting multiple value creation in small fashion retail. We focus on a qualitative, single in-depth case study—pop-up store KLEER—that we operated for a duration of three months in the Autumn of 2020. The shop served as a ‘testlab’ for action research to experiment with different business models around buying, swapping, and borrowing second-hand clothing. Adopting the Business Model Template (BMT) as a conceptual lens, we undertook a sensory ethnography which led to disclose three key strategies for circular business model innovation in fashion retail: Fashion-as-a-Service (F-a-a-S) instead of Product-as-a-Service (P-a-a-S) (1), Place-based value proposition (2) and Community as co-creator (3). Drawing on these findings, we reflect on ethnography in the context of a real pop-up store as methodological approach for business model experimentation. As a practical implication, we propose a tailor-made BMT for sustainable SME fashion retailers. Poldner K, Overdiek A, Evangelista A. Fashion-as-a-Service: Circular Business Model Innovation in Retail. Sustainability. 2022; 14(20):13273. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013273
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De gemeente Almere wil richting een circulaire economie bewegen, waarin zo min mogelijk grondstoffen gebruikt worden en waarin zo min mogelijk afval ontstaat. Een van de reststromen die een grote milieu-impact hebben is textiel. De indruk bestaat dat steeds meer textiel kortstondig gebruikt wordt of van een zodanige kwaliteit is dat het een korte levensduur heeft (zogenaamde fast-fashion). De gemeente Almere wil de trend van fast-fashion bij jongeren doorbreken, maar weet nog niet goed hoe deze doelgroep te bereiken en hoe meer bewustzijn en een gedragsverandering bij deze doelgroep gerealiseerd kan worden. Het huidige onderzoek is verricht om meer inzicht te krijgen in de gedragsfactoren die bij deze verandering in bewustzijn en gedrag een rol kunnen spelen en het type gedrag waarop de verandering zich kan richten. Voor het het kopen van fast fashion/ niet duurzame kleding bestaan een aantal alternatieven: (1) duurzame merken kopen, (2) tweedehands kleding kopen, (3) kleding ruilen, (4) kleding huren of leasen en tot slot (5) minder kleding kopen. De enquête richt zich vooral op de gedragsfactoren in relatie tot deze vijf gedragsalternatieven. De interviews waren bedoeld om hier verdieping aan te geven. Daarnaast is hierin aandacht besteed aan het type koper (naar de typologie van McNeil en Moore, 2015) en aan de rol van social influencers om meer verdieping te geven aan de gedragsfactor sociale normen. Gezamenlijk wilden wij hiermee de volgende onderzoeksvragen beantwoorden:1. Hoe kunnen de jongeren in Almere getypeerd worden als het gaat om hun kledingkoopgedrag?2. Welke gedragsalternatieven zijn jongeren (in Almere) het meest bereid om te kiezen? 3. Welke gedragsfactoren beïnvloeden de bereidheid om voor deze gedragsalternatieven te kiezen? Aan de hand van 320 enquêtes en 15 interviews is het kledingkoopgedrag van jongeren in Almere (deels gecombineerd met landelijk) onderzocht. Hieruit kan het volgende geconcludeerd worden: •In Almere koopt men grotendeels kleding bij grote fast fashion ketens. Een groot deel van de Almeerse jeugd is dan ook wel in meer of mindere mate met het fenomeen fast fashion in verband te brengen. •De bereidheid om voor duurzamere alternatieven te kiezen is onder jongeren in Almere aanwezig, maar niet heel groot. De aanwezige bereidheid geldt voor het kopen van duurzame merken, tweedehands kleding kopen, kleding ruilen en minder kleding kopen. Voor kleding huren of lenen is nauwelijks bereidheid aanwezig. •Uit de enquête komen drie belangrijke gedragsfactoren naar voren die de bereidheid beïnvloeden: de Attitude (affectief; hoe leuk vs. saai zijn de duurzame alternatieven), Self-Efficacy (hoe makkelijk vs. moeilijk is het kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven) en de Response Efficacy (hoeveel zin heeft het om te kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven). In iets minder mate komt ook Cognitieve Attitude naar voren als gedragsfactor (hoe belangrijk is het milieu bij de aankoop van kleding). •Uit de interviews komt vooral veel bevestiging voor het effect van Response Efficacy en Self-Efficacy en van de Cognitieve Attitude naar voren. Daarnaast komt Impulsgedrag als nieuwe factor naar voren (welke rol speelt het weerstand kunnen bieden aan het genot/ plezier dat shoppen oplevert?) •Al met al kan geconcludeerd worden dat de bereidheid om voor duurzame opties te kiezen gemiddeld niet heel hoog is, maar dat de mogelijkheid om deze bereidheid te beïnvloeden wel groot lijkt en er veel verschillende gedragsfactoren zijn waarop aangegrepen kan worden. Voor deze gedragsfactoren is een overzicht van mogelijke interventies gepresenteerd.
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Duurzame kleding is belangrijk. Als je het consumenten vraagt vindt het merendeel dit. Maar om over te gaan tot een duurzame aankoop is meer nodig dan alleen goede wil. Klanten hebben hulp nodig om die keuze in de winkel te maken. Zij hebben behoefte aan informatie, die hun op een makkelijke en leuke manier wordt aangereikt. Next Fashion Retail (NFR) heeft een toolkit ontwikkeld die retailers hiervoor kunnen inzetten. In dit whitepaper lees je over de onderzoeksresultaten waar deze toolkit op gebaseerd is en de rol van medewerkers en ondernemers in de verduurzaming van retailorganisaties.
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Fashion is under scrutiny. Social activists raise the debate around animal welfare in the apparel industry. With shocking and disturbing images, they are campaigning to attract worldwide media attention in order to highlight serious animal abuse in production of fashion, and influence consumption. Our study addresses how this movement influences “meaning” that is given to related fashion products, and how seemingly similar campaigns sort different effects on consumer practices. Via a cross case discourse analysis of Dutch fashion texts, this paper sheds light on why this might be the case. It concludes with the notion that it is discourses which change first before shaping social reality.
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In a rapidly evolving world, the need for innovative approaches to societal challenges is more critical than ever. As partners of the Network Applied Design Research (NADR), we believe that applied design research can be a promising approach for addressing complex issues in many domains, such as health-care, digital media, and urban sustainability. But what makes applied design research such a power-ful force for societal change? And how can designers move beyond mere problem-solving to create lasting impact? To discuss this, NADR applies an annual knowledge cycle where researchers submit contributions that are mutually reflected upon. The contributions you can read in these preceedings are the result of such a knowledge-sharing process. The twenty-one contributions are divided into four themes, each addressing a different dimension of the issue at hand. Contributions in part 1 – Connecting System Levels - emphasise the relationship between small-scale interventions and large-scale change. Contributions in part 2 - Theory of Change - examine how change processes actually take place. Contributions in part 3 - Balancing Different Worldviews - address the unique perspective that each stakeholder involved contributes. And contributions in part 4 - Beyond Solutionism - discuss whether it is at all possible to develop ready-made ‘solutions’ to the complex challenges we are facing.
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Although it appears increasingly important yet potentially challenging to attract customers to physical stores, location-based messaging, i.e., delivering mobile phone messages using data about the recipient's location when that recipient is near the sender, has been said to enable such attraction. Still, existing studies offer very limited insight into which particular location-based persuasion approach retailers should use. Drawing on persuasion theory, this exploratory study aims to investigate and compare the potential of two discrepant persuasion techniques (scarcity and social proof) to influence customers' experiences and thereby stimulate them to visit the retailer's physical store. A factorial survey design was applied to test the research model. Data were collected from a sample of actual customers of a Dutch fashion retailer (n = 579). The results suggest that scarcity is a more effective persuasion technique in the studied context than social proof; scarcity-focused messages appear to be experienced as more informative, more entertaining and less irritating, seem to be valued more because of this, and are thus more likely to incline customers to visit the store. We discuss these findings and their implications for theory as well as for practice.
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Fashion design has rapidly become a digital process where textiles are simulated as soft, conformable materials on a digital body. The embodied experience and physical interaction with the textile have been replaced by screen-based media, resulting in a gap in understanding between physical and digital textile material. Consequently, understanding digitized textile properties and characteristics has become challenging for practitioners. This research investigates fashion designers’ implicit understanding when selecting textiles, specifically how interactions with physical textiles influence design considerations. Twenty digital fashion designers interacted with ten physical textile materials via tangible and scientific drape measurements, reflecting upon their design considerations. In digital environments, a tangible understanding of material properties is vital, and scientific drape measurements add significant understanding to digital design. The research advances our understanding of integrating digital tools in textile and soft material practices, where a postphenomenological approach is employed to help formulate the design considerations in selecting materials.
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Our current smart society, where problems and frictions are smoothed out with smart, often invisible technology like AI and smart sensors, calls for designers who unravel and open the smart fabric. Societies are not malleable, and moreover, a smooth society without rough edges is neither desirable nor livable. In this paper we argue for designing friction to enhance a more nuanced debate of smart cities in which conflicting values are better expressed. Based on our experiences with the Moral Design Game, an adversarial design activity, we came to understand the value of creating tangible vessels to highlight conflict and dipartite feelings surrounding smart cities.
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