The process of making adaptive and responsive wearables on the scale of the body hasoften been a process where designers use off-the-shelf parts or hand-crafted electronics to fabricategarments. However, recent research has shown the importance of emergence in the process of making.Second Skins is a multistakeholder exploration into the creation of those garments where the designersand engineers work together throughout the design process so that opportunities and challengesemerge with all stakeholders present in the process. This research serves as a case study into thecreation of adaptive caring garments for sustainable wardrobes from a multistakeholder designteam. The team created a garment that can customize the colors, patterns, structures, and otherproperties dynamically. A reflection on the multi-stakeholder process unpacks the process to explorethe challenges and opportunities in adaptable e-textiles.
The main challenge for the Dutch and European textile and clothing sector is to make a paradigm shift from labour intensive industry to knowledge based industry. This shift is essential for gaining a competitive edge and to develop innovative products and eco-friendly processes. A promising technology to achieve this is digital printing. This future oriented process is aimed to achieve high energy, water, and chemical savings and therefore a drastic reduction of waste. The technology breakthrough is based on a novel Eco-friendly flexible digital process. The basic components of Inkjet printers are hardware, software, inks and the substrate, which in this case is a textile.Inkjet processes can be divided in two main categories, image printing and functional printing. Image printing is already a mature technology and commercially available. The biggest advantages of inkjet printing over screen printing techniques is ease of operation, cost savings and most importantly ability to handle smaller volume (mass customisation). The functional printing is still in the research and development stage. It offers immense possibilities to bring various functional and nano-materials on textile surface on demand in a continuous process at atmospheric conditions and room temperature. Additionally functionality can be delivered at specific location on the textile with a possibility to apply more than one functionality either side by side or layer by layer. Inkjet processes could replace conventional high temperature and wet textile processes. Digital micro-disposal of fluids is expected to alter textile economics in terms of production speeds and on demand production.Nevertheless inkjet printing/finishing on textiles surfaces with different functional formulations is a major challenge. This is because of the close interaction between ink properties and chemistry, the piezo inkjets and the textile substrate. A typical process involves the development of stable jettable colloidal functional inks that will be delivered on well prepared textile substrate, followed by proper curing/fixation.The case we discuss in the manuscript is the development of a smart textile based heatable pair of trousers especially designed for people with disabilities. The inkjet printed textile samples were prepared and compared with conductive samples produced with well-established techniques such as weaving, knitting, nonwoven techniques and embroidering.
MULTIFILE
Facilitate multidisciplinary e-textile development by enhancing collaboration and knowledge transfer across disciplines, ultimately leading to comprehensive requirements while keeping the user interaction in mind. presentation during E-textiles 2023
MULTIFILE
The textile and clothing sector belongs to the world’s biggest economic activities. Producing textiles is highly energy-, water- and chemical-intensive and consequently the textile industry has a strong impact on environment and is regarded as the second greatest polluter of clean water. The European textile industry has taken significant steps taken in developing sustainable manufacturing processes and materials for example in water treatment and the development of biobased and recycled fibres. However, the large amount of harmful and toxic chemicals necessary, especially the synthetic colourants, i.e. the pigments and dyes used to colour the textile fibres and fabrics remains a serious concern. The limited range of alternative natural colourants that is available often fail the desired intensity and light stability and also are not provided at the affordable cost . The industrial partners and the branch organisations Modint and Contactgroep Textiel are actively searching for sustainable alternatives and have approached Avans to assist in the development of the colourants which led to the project Beauti-Fully Biobased Fibres project proposal. The objective of the Beauti-Fully Biobased Fibres project is to develop sustainable, renewable colourants with improved light fastness and colour intensity for colouration of (biobased) man-made textile fibres Avans University of Applied Science, Zuyd University of Applied Sciences, Wageningen University & Research, Maastricht University and representatives from the textile industry will actively collaborate in the project. Specific approaches have been identified which build on knowledge developed by the knowledge partners in earlier projects. These will now be used for designing sustainable, renewable colourants with the improved quality aspects of light fastness and intensity as required in the textile industry. The selected approaches include refining natural extracts, encapsulation and novel chemical modification of nano-particle surfaces with chromophores.
Phosphorus is an essential element for life, whether in the agricultural sector or in the chemical industry to make products such as flame retardants and batteries. Almost all the phosphorus we use are mined from phosphate rocks. Since Europe scarcely has any mine, we therefore depend on imported phosphate, which poses a risk of supply. To that effect, Europe has listed phosphate as one of its main critical raw materials. This creates a need for the search for alternative sources of phosphate such as wastewater, since most of the phosphate we use end up in our wastewater. Additionally, the direct discharge of wastewater with high concentration of phosphorus (typically > 50 ppb phosphorus) creates a range of environmental problems such as eutrophication . In this context, the Dutch start-up company, SusPhos, created a process to produce biobased flame retardants using phosphorus recovered from municipal wastewater. Flame retardants are often used in textiles, furniture, electronics, construction materials, to mention a few. They are important for safety reasons since they can help prevent or spread fires. Currently, almost all the phosphate flame retardants in the market are obtained from phosphate rocks, but SusPhos is changing this paradigm by being the first company to produce phosphate flame retardants from waste. The process developed by SusPhos to upcycle phosphate-rich streams to high-quality flame retardant can be considered to be in the TRL 5. The company seeks to move further to a TRL 7 via building and operating a demo-scale plant in 2021/2022. BioFlame proposes a collaboration between a SME (SusPhos), a ZZP (Willem Schipper Consultancy) and HBO institute group (Water Technology, NHL Stenden) to expand the available expertise and generate the necessary infrastructure to tackle this transition challenge.
On a yearly basis 120 million kg of spent coffee ground (SCG) is disposed as waste. Two partners in the project have the intension to refine the valuable compounds from this coffee residue. One of these compounds is the group of melanoidins. It is proven that these natural polymers, with polyphenols incorporated, can be applied as colourant to textiles. These colourant compounds can be extracted from the SCG. In this project an industrial feasible dye recipe for SCG extract to cotton will be developed. This twostep dye method consists of a mordanting step and a colour uptake step. Both will be optimised to colour intensity and light and wash fastness. Parameters as cycle time and energy and water consumption, will be take into account to make the dye recipe applicable for industrial standards. Chemical analysis of mordant compounds (tannins) and colourants (polyphenols) will be carried out to quantify and qualify the uptake by cotton. With the results of this project, the partners will be able to support their customers of the SCG extract with a scientific based advise about the application as a textile dye to ensure a solid market acceptance of SCG extract. With the SCG extract as a professional biobased colorant in the market, companies in textile industry will have a wider choice in using environmental friendly products. At the end, this will lead to complete biodegradable products for consumers.
