This article seeks to contribute to the literature on circular business model innovation in fashion retail. Our research question is which ‘model’—or combination of models—would be ideal as a business case crafting multiple value creation in small fashion retail. We focus on a qualitative, single in-depth case study—pop-up store KLEER—that we operated for a duration of three months in the Autumn of 2020. The shop served as a ‘testlab’ for action research to experiment with different business models around buying, swapping, and borrowing second-hand clothing. Adopting the Business Model Template (BMT) as a conceptual lens, we undertook a sensory ethnography which led to disclose three key strategies for circular business model innovation in fashion retail: Fashion-as-a-Service (F-a-a-S) instead of Product-as-a-Service (P-a-a-S) (1), Place-based value proposition (2) and Community as co-creator (3). Drawing on these findings, we reflect on ethnography in the context of a real pop-up store as methodological approach for business model experimentation. As a practical implication, we propose a tailor-made BMT for sustainable SME fashion retailers. Poldner K, Overdiek A, Evangelista A. Fashion-as-a-Service: Circular Business Model Innovation in Retail. Sustainability. 2022; 14(20):13273. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013273
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De gemeente Almere wil richting een circulaire economie bewegen, waarin zo min mogelijk grondstoffen gebruikt worden en waarin zo min mogelijk afval ontstaat. Een van de reststromen die een grote milieu-impact hebben is textiel. De indruk bestaat dat steeds meer textiel kortstondig gebruikt wordt of van een zodanige kwaliteit is dat het een korte levensduur heeft (zogenaamde fast-fashion). De gemeente Almere wil de trend van fast-fashion bij jongeren doorbreken, maar weet nog niet goed hoe deze doelgroep te bereiken en hoe meer bewustzijn en een gedragsverandering bij deze doelgroep gerealiseerd kan worden. Het huidige onderzoek is verricht om meer inzicht te krijgen in de gedragsfactoren die bij deze verandering in bewustzijn en gedrag een rol kunnen spelen en het type gedrag waarop de verandering zich kan richten. Voor het het kopen van fast fashion/ niet duurzame kleding bestaan een aantal alternatieven: (1) duurzame merken kopen, (2) tweedehands kleding kopen, (3) kleding ruilen, (4) kleding huren of leasen en tot slot (5) minder kleding kopen. De enquête richt zich vooral op de gedragsfactoren in relatie tot deze vijf gedragsalternatieven. De interviews waren bedoeld om hier verdieping aan te geven. Daarnaast is hierin aandacht besteed aan het type koper (naar de typologie van McNeil en Moore, 2015) en aan de rol van social influencers om meer verdieping te geven aan de gedragsfactor sociale normen. Gezamenlijk wilden wij hiermee de volgende onderzoeksvragen beantwoorden:1. Hoe kunnen de jongeren in Almere getypeerd worden als het gaat om hun kledingkoopgedrag?2. Welke gedragsalternatieven zijn jongeren (in Almere) het meest bereid om te kiezen? 3. Welke gedragsfactoren beïnvloeden de bereidheid om voor deze gedragsalternatieven te kiezen? Aan de hand van 320 enquêtes en 15 interviews is het kledingkoopgedrag van jongeren in Almere (deels gecombineerd met landelijk) onderzocht. Hieruit kan het volgende geconcludeerd worden: •In Almere koopt men grotendeels kleding bij grote fast fashion ketens. Een groot deel van de Almeerse jeugd is dan ook wel in meer of mindere mate met het fenomeen fast fashion in verband te brengen. •De bereidheid om voor duurzamere alternatieven te kiezen is onder jongeren in Almere aanwezig, maar niet heel groot. De aanwezige bereidheid geldt voor het kopen van duurzame merken, tweedehands kleding kopen, kleding ruilen en minder kleding kopen. Voor kleding huren of lenen is nauwelijks bereidheid aanwezig. •Uit de enquête komen drie belangrijke gedragsfactoren naar voren die de bereidheid beïnvloeden: de Attitude (affectief; hoe leuk vs. saai zijn de duurzame alternatieven), Self-Efficacy (hoe makkelijk vs. moeilijk is het kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven) en de Response Efficacy (hoeveel zin heeft het om te kiezen voor de duurzame alternatieven). In iets minder mate komt ook Cognitieve Attitude naar voren als gedragsfactor (hoe belangrijk is het milieu bij de aankoop van kleding). •Uit de interviews komt vooral veel bevestiging voor het effect van Response Efficacy en Self-Efficacy en van de Cognitieve Attitude naar voren. Daarnaast komt Impulsgedrag als nieuwe factor naar voren (welke rol speelt het weerstand kunnen bieden aan het genot/ plezier dat shoppen oplevert?) •Al met al kan geconcludeerd worden dat de bereidheid om voor duurzame opties te kiezen gemiddeld niet heel hoog is, maar dat de mogelijkheid om deze bereidheid te beïnvloeden wel groot lijkt en er veel verschillende gedragsfactoren zijn waarop aangegrepen kan worden. Voor deze gedragsfactoren is een overzicht van mogelijke interventies gepresenteerd.
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Small medium enterprises represent the largest share of revenues in the apparel and fashion business, compared to larger integrated companies. Small companies however often have to rely on larger suppliers in order to efficiently produce their products. These larger suppliers however will often prioritize companies that place larger orders. In the impossibility to deliver larger orders, how can these buyers make sure that a producer complies with their requests? In this paper we try to answer this question by applying concepts from the marketing channels literature to the specific context of fashion buying. We conclude that despite that the peculiarities of the fashion business do not foster the formation of long-term commitment, dependent companies can develop sources of power based on knowledge and reputation, but also based on applying non-mediated ways to manage the buyer-seller relationship. Examples of possible power sources for a buyer are: establishing a strong brand that a business partner will use in promoting its proposition, forcing suppliers to make transaction specific investments (which are not redeploy able), specializing in new products and technologies that a supplier will want to understand and use, developing knowledge that can be exchanged in the form of specialized personnel, investing in standardization of communication before the relationship starts in order to reduce administrative costs for both parties. Power sources are most effective when non-mediated, i.e. informal and based on reciprocity; ‘hard’ contracts with punishments (coercive power sources) in case of non-compliance will diminish the willingness to collaborate.
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While consumers have become increasingly aware of the need for sustainability in fashion, many do not translate their intention to purchase sustainable fashion into actual behavior. Insights can be gained from those who have successfully transitioned from intention to behavior (i.e., experienced sustainable fashion consumers). Despite a substantial body of literature exploring predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing, a comprehensive view on how predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing vary between consumers with and without sustainable fashion experience is lacking. This paper reports a systematic literature review, analyzing 100 empirical articles on predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing among consumer samples with and without purchasing experience, identified from the Web of Science and Scopus databases.
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Based on a literature review, this article discusses how the challenge of diminishing clothing production volumes has been approached within the field of sustainable fashion. We identify six common strategies in literature and discuss the approach of user involvement in the process of design and/or manufacture of garments in detail. A critical analysis of the state of the art in the field points out that these strategies have been constructed, studied and promoted without empirical validation. The article concludes with a recommendation to move forward from conceptual to empirical studies. Analyses of existing initiatives and their results in terms of consumer buying behavior and obsolete inventory are recommended as first steps towards validation.
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To enhance the validity of a mobility emission-effects model, a research is conducted on consumer behaviour. Consumer mobilitypreferences are the main determining factor in the proposed model that describes the kilometre and emission outcome under several scenarios. Motorized mobility of consumers buying fashion in shopping areas cause more kilometres in the network and subsequently more emission than when the fashion is bought online and the delivery is done by the parcel delivery services.The model provides an indication of best practice: if consumers change their shopping preferences they reduce emission and they also enable the PDSs to optimize their delivery operations
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This paper discusses two studies - the one in a business context, the other in a university context - carried out with expert educational designers. The studies aimed to determine the priorities experts claim to employ when designing competence-based learning environments. Designers in both contexts agree almost completely on principles they feel are important. Both groups emphasized that one should start a design enterprise from the needs of the learners, instead of the content structure of the learning domain. However, unlike business designers, university designers find it extremely important to consider alternative solutions during the whole design process. University designers also say that they focus more on project plan and desired characteristics of the instructional blueprint whereas business designers report being more client-oriented, stressing the importance of "buying in" the client early in the process.
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The aim of this study is to unpack the value of ethnographic research as a relevant methodology for studying and developing new business models. A pop-up store we ran for three months in 2020 served as a testlab to experiment with value creation around buying, swapping and borrowing secondhand clothing. LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kim-aplonia-poldner-a003473/ https://www.linkedin.com/in/overdiek12345/
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This paper will describe the rationale and findings from a multinational study of online uses and gratifications conducted in the United States, Korea, and the Netherlands in spring 2003. A survey research method of study was conducted using a questionnaire developed in three languages and was presented to approximately 400 respondents in each country via the Web. Web uses and gratifications were analyzed cross-nationally in a comparative fashion and focused on the perceived involvement in different types of on-line communities. Findings indicate that demographic characteristics, cultural values, and Internet connection type emerged as critical factors that explain why the same technology is adopted differently. The analyses identified seven major gratifications sought by users in each country: social support, surveillance & advice, learning, entertainment, escape, fame & aesthetic, and respect. Although the Internet is a global medium, in general, web use is more local and regional. Evidence of media use and cultural values reported by country and online community supports the hypothesis of a technological convergence between societies, not a cultural convergence.
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In a rapidly evolving world, the need for innovative approaches to societal challenges is more critical than ever. As partners of the Network Applied Design Research (NADR), we believe that applied design research can be a promising approach for addressing complex issues in many domains, such as health-care, digital media, and urban sustainability. But what makes applied design research such a power-ful force for societal change? And how can designers move beyond mere problem-solving to create lasting impact? To discuss this, NADR applies an annual knowledge cycle where researchers submit contributions that are mutually reflected upon. The contributions you can read in these preceedings are the result of such a knowledge-sharing process. The twenty-one contributions are divided into four themes, each addressing a different dimension of the issue at hand. Contributions in part 1 – Connecting System Levels - emphasise the relationship between small-scale interventions and large-scale change. Contributions in part 2 - Theory of Change - examine how change processes actually take place. Contributions in part 3 - Balancing Different Worldviews - address the unique perspective that each stakeholder involved contributes. And contributions in part 4 - Beyond Solutionism - discuss whether it is at all possible to develop ready-made ‘solutions’ to the complex challenges we are facing.
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