This article seeks to contribute to the literature on circular business model innovation in fashion retail. Our research question is which ‘model’—or combination of models—would be ideal as a business case crafting multiple value creation in small fashion retail. We focus on a qualitative, single in-depth case study—pop-up store KLEER—that we operated for a duration of three months in the Autumn of 2020. The shop served as a ‘testlab’ for action research to experiment with different business models around buying, swapping, and borrowing second-hand clothing. Adopting the Business Model Template (BMT) as a conceptual lens, we undertook a sensory ethnography which led to disclose three key strategies for circular business model innovation in fashion retail: Fashion-as-a-Service (F-a-a-S) instead of Product-as-a-Service (P-a-a-S) (1), Place-based value proposition (2) and Community as co-creator (3). Drawing on these findings, we reflect on ethnography in the context of a real pop-up store as methodological approach for business model experimentation. As a practical implication, we propose a tailor-made BMT for sustainable SME fashion retailers. Poldner K, Overdiek A, Evangelista A. Fashion-as-a-Service: Circular Business Model Innovation in Retail. Sustainability. 2022; 14(20):13273. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013273
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Management of fashion (related) companies need to become convinced that circularity delivers positive financial results and incentives. This research aims to provide the first information requirement insights needed to enable the transition to a circular fashion industry. Due to easy access and abundant information ‘Jeans’ were selected as example item. Using the Design Science research approach the required information within in a closed loop supply chain (CLSC) in fashion was derived. Semi-structured interviews validated the CLSC information requirements derived from literature. Next, observations and additional literature findings supported the interview results. The outcomes show that information to support integration and collaboration of both: supply and recycle chain is necessary. Independently operating recycle organizations miss ‘central loop management’, ‘information integration’ and ‘a chain-common objective’ to successfully adopt circularity. The main bottlenecks found in relation to circularity are: ‘overlooking the customer as stakeholder’ and ‘a lack of chain integration’, this applies not only to jeans items. Therefore, the indicative study outcomes contribute to the body of knowledge of circular fashion value chain information requirements in general
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This article investigates the phenomenon of rebound effects in relation to a transition to a Circular Economy (CE) through qualitative inquiry. The aim is to gain insights in manifestations of rebound effects by studying the Dutch textile industry as it transitions to a circular system, and to develop appropriate mitigation strategies that can be applied to ensure an effective transition. The rebound effect, known originally from the energy efficiency literature, occurs when improvements in efficiency or other technological innovations fail to deliver on their environmental promise due to (behavioral) economic mechanisms. The presence of rebound in CE contexts can therefore lead to the structural overstatement of environmental benefits of certain innovations, which can influence reaching emission targets and the preference order of recycling. In this research, the CE rebound effect is investigated in the Dutch textile industry, which is identified as being vulnerable to rebound, yet with a positive potential to avoid it. The main findings include the very low awareness of this effect amongst key stakeholders, and the identification of specific and general instances of rebound effects in the investigated industry. In addition, the relation of these effects to Circular Business Models and CE strategies are investigated, and placed in a larger context in order to gain a more comprehensive understanding about the place and role of this effect in the transition. This concerns the necessity for a new approach to how design has been practiced traditionally, and the need to place transitional developments in a systems perspective. Propositions that serve as theory-building blocks are put forward and include suggestions for further research and recommendations about dealing with rebound effects and shaping an eco-effective transition. Thomas Siderius, Kim Poldner, Reconsidering the Circular Economy Rebound effect: Propositions from a case study of the Dutch Circular Textile Valley, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 293, 2021, 125996, ISSN 0959-6526, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.125996.
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Hoewel consumenten aangeven duurzame aspecten van kleding belangrijk te vinden, vertaalt dit zich niet direct in de aankoop van meer duurzame kleding. Uit een enquête van TMO Fashion Business School onder de klanten van mkb multi-brand fashionretailers (steekproefgrootte= 363) blijkt dat 61% van de ondervraagden niet weet welke merken duurzaam zijn en behoefte hebben aan transparantie hierover. Daarnaast vindt 71% de communicatie van verkoopmedewerkers over duurzaamheid slecht (Van der Laan, 2022). Wat kunnen mkb multi-brand fashionretailers doen om hun assortiment duurzame kleding beter te verkopen? Om antwoord te geven op bovenstaande vraag is Next Fashion Retail (NFR) opgericht; een SIA onderzoeksproject van De Haagse Hogeschool, TMO Development Center, Cube Retail en branchepartners Modint, Inretail en Euretco. Next Fashion Retail onderzoekt hoe moderetailers de online en offline retailomgeving kunnen inzetten om de verkoop van duurzame kleding te stimuleren (Van der Laan, 2022). Het onderzoeksproject van NFR is gestart met de onderzoeksvraag: Hoe kunnen mkb multi-brand fashion retailers hun customer journey inrichten om de verkoop van duurzam(er)e kleding te vergroten? In het voorjaar van 2022 zijn op basis van deze eerste onderzoeksresultaten innovaties ontwikkeld door designstudenten, die retailers helpen hun duurzame mode-aanbod beter te verkopen (Van der Laan, 2022). Het winnende design idee van het NFR onderzoek zijn de informatieve hangers van Maaike Roos: Deze zogenaamde ‘conversation pieces’ stimuleren de dialoog tussen medewerkers en klanten over duurzaamheid en zorgen ervoor dat zowel medewerkers als klanten meer informatie over duurzamere keuzes krijgen. Er zijn 3 categorieën geformuleerd met 6 vragen, vijf op de hangers en éen op de ‘give away’ bij de kassa. De drie categorieën zijn: materialen, makers en care. De categorie materialen bestaat uit de materialen: katoen, polyester, viscose en wol. De categorie ‘ makers’ bestaat uit een shelftalker en een hanger eveneens de categorie ‘care’. Het onderzoek is zowel on- als offline: het offline gedeelte wordt uitgevoerd door studenten van TMO Fashion Business School en zal worden uitgevoerd bij negen retailers in de periode van 14 oktober tot 9 december 2022 (zie tabel 1.0). Het online gedeelte wordt uitgevoerd door studenten van de opleiding Ondernemerschap en Retailmanagement van de Haagse Hogeschool.
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While consumers have become increasingly aware of the need for sustainability in fashion, many do not translate their intention to purchase sustainable fashion into actual behavior. Insights can be gained from those who have successfully transitioned from intention to behavior (i.e., experienced sustainable fashion consumers). Despite a substantial body of literature exploring predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing, a comprehensive view on how predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing vary between consumers with and without sustainable fashion experience is lacking. This paper reports a systematic literature review, analyzing 100 empirical articles on predictors of sustainable fashion purchasing among consumer samples with and without purchasing experience, identified from the Web of Science and Scopus databases.
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This lessons learned report gives an overview of the output and results of the first phase of the REDUCES project. The introduction states the relevance of combining a policy approach with business model analysis, and defines the objectives. Next, an overview is given of circular economy good business practices in the regions involved. Examining these business practices helped to define the regional needs for circular economy policy. This business approach proved to be a solid base for developing regional circular economy action plans, the last chapter of this report.
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We aim to understand the interaction between shifting organizational field logics and field actors’ responses to reconcile logic plurality and maintain legitimacy through business model innovation. Drawing on a multimethod, longitudinal field study in the fashion industry, we traced how de novo and incumbent firms integrate circular logics in business models (for sustainability) and uncover how productive tensions in field logics lead to experimental spaces for business model innovation. Our findings showed a shift in the discourse on circular logic that diverted attention and resources from materials innovation (e.g. recycling) to business model innovation (e.g. circular business models). By juxtaposing the degree of field logic tension and the degree of business model innovation, we derive four types of business model hybridization responses that actors engaged in to maintain legitimacy – constrained, limited, integrated, and expanded. Our study generates new insights on business models for sustainability as vehicles for organizational field change. We make novel contributions to the literatures on organizational fields, business models for sustainability and business model innovation.
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We aim to understand the interaction between shifting organizational field logics and field actors’ responses to reconcile logic plurality and maintain legitimacy through business model innovation. Drawing on a multimethod, longitudinal field study in the fashion industry, we traced how de novo and incumbent firms integrate circular logics in business models (for sustainability) and uncover how productive tensions in field logics lead to experimental spaces for business model innovation. Our findings showed a shift in the discourse on circular logic that diverted attention and resources from materials innovation (e.g. recycling) to business model innovation (e.g. circular business models). By juxtaposing the degree of field logic tension and the degree of business model innovation, we derive four types of business model hybridization responses that actors engaged in to maintain legitimacy – constrained, limited, integrated, and expanded. Our study generates new insights on business models for sustainability as vehicles for organizational field change.
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Network Applied Design Research (NADR) made an inventory of the current state of Circular Design Research in the Netherlands. In this publication, readers will find a summary of six promising ‘gateways to circularity’ that may serve as entry points for future research initiatives. These six gateways are: Looped Systems; Extension of Useful Lifetime; Servitisation; New Materials and Production Techniques; Information Technology and Digitization; and Creating Public and Industry Awareness. The final chapter offers an outlook into topics that require more profound examination. The NADR hopes that this publication will serve as a starting point for discussions among designers, entrepreneurs, and researchers, with the goal of initiating future collaborative projects. It is the NADR's belief that only through intensive international cooperation, we can contribute to the realization of a sustainable, circular, and habitable world.
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This study evaluates the effectiveness of the European Union's Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) in quantitatively measuring the transition of companies to a circular economy. First, using the most recent literature review on circularity metrics, a complete overview of the currently available circularity metrics is developed. Subsequently, it is determined which circularity metrics can be generated with the available quantitative datapoints of CSRD. The metrics that can be generated were analyzed on their ability to cover all circular strategies, to represent different Product-as-a-Service systems and to acknowledge the key role of Critical Raw Materials in a circular economy. The study finds that, with data disclosed under CSRD, metrics can be generated to cover all circular strategies. However, gaps remain in representing pay-per-use and pay-perperformance systems and the use of Critical Raw Materials. Recommendations are to include ‘Product utilization’ and ‘Mass of Critical Raw Materials used’ in the data disclosed under CSRD and to have an independent institution report data to enable benchmarking of performances. Finally, this study concludes with an overview of the metrics which enable to measure circular transitions using data disclosed by CSRD
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